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Лодочные моторы EVINRUDE

В шестнадцать лет Эвинруд переехал в город Мадисон этого же штата, где работал в магазине техники и учился на инженера на собственные средства. Работал в различных машиностроительных инструментальных фирмах в МилуокиПиттсбурге и Чикаго. Commander от Р Туристические. Defender от Р Многофункциональные. Maverick от Р Спортивные. Maverick X3 от Р Суперспорт. Spark от Р Прогулочные. Recreation от Р Для отдыха. Sport от Р Спортивные. Evinrude Flover HDX Hangkai Honda Johnson Mercury Nissan Marine Parsun Suzuki Tohatsu Yamaha. Модель Вес, кг V, см3 К-во цилиндров Запуск Управление Подъем ноги Длина ноги Цена, руб. D - E-TEC L - вал длиной 20" мм E - электрический стартер X - вал длиной 25" мм R - ручной стартер, румпельное управление Z - вал длиной 30" мм W - коммерческая модель M - Military Edition T - румпельное управление J - водомётный движитель H - High Output- настройка на тяжелые условия эксплуатации усиленный редуктор, винт с большим шагом и т. Оставьте отзыв Cancel Reply. Badger Bravo Evinrude Flagman Flinc Gladiator Hidea Honda Johnson Mercury Minn Kota Nissan Marine Parsun Poseidon RIB Selva Solar Solas Suzuki Tohatsu Windboat Yamaha Yamaran Zodiac Адмирал гидрокрыло гребные винты масло Мнев и К оснащение парус ПВХ материал переделка ремонт Ротан Салют топливо Фрегат Хантер эхолот. V, см3 К-во цилиндров. Лодочный мотор Evinrude E3. Лодочный мотор Evinrude E30Dpslab бензин, нога L ммГод: Лодочный мотор Evenrude 6л. Отключен JavaScript У вас отключен JavaScript. Подтвердить Скрыть Показать Удалить Объединить Разделить Перенести.

  • Ловить на воблеры в контакте
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  • Всё об Evinrude Автор Роман5109 окт. Уже без судна пока. Bayliner Ciera Название: CFad3cAodcF0AYgебей тоже рулит, и самое главное их мало в россии. Да, немножко затянулся От меня не далеко два дилера БРП: Есть ещё вариант обслуживания в Финке кмно конечно это крайний случай! Надеюсь обращаться придётся только на плановые ТО. В этом году БРП объявила о прекращении выпуска спортивных катеров с водомётными движителями, в связи с этим можно предположить, что компания сосредоточится на продвижении других своих продуктов. Кто знает, может ожним из этих продуктов станут именно подвесные моторы Тем более, что по свим ТТХ они более чем конкурентоспособны, не хватает только развитой сети сервисов и банка запчастей. Мы создали расширение для браузера. Оно совершенствует любую страницу энциклопедии, которую вы посетите, с помощью магических технологий WIKI 2. Национальный зал славы изобретателей США [d]. Той же зимой в одном из нью-орлеанских отелей он спроектировал облегченный двигатель, а вернувшись в Милуоки, продолжал совершенствовать его конструкцию. Однако старый партнер Крис Мейер не проявил интереса к переходу на производство нового двигателя мощностью уже 3 л. Тогда Эвинруды организовали свою компанию, которая в г. Их продавали тысячами, причем каждый двигатель снабжался комплектом инструментов. Летний дом Ола на озере Окономоуок стал по сути дела испытательной лабораторией фирмы. Почти каждый год на рынке появлялась новая модель подвесного двигателя. В результате образовалась компания "Аутборд Мотор Корпорейшн", президентом которой стал Ол. От тяжелой работы снова заболела Бесс, и летнему Олу пришлось опять везти ее на Великие озера. Но болезнь зашла слишком далеко. В мае г. И хотя Ол перегружал себя разнообразными занятиями - занимался фотографией, стрельбой, постоянно путешествовал, жить без жены он не смог: Джим Уэбб, работавший с Эвинрудом с г. If you suspect a problem with them, pull the air breather box off. Rather hard to detect however if it is bent or slightly misaligned. Possibly low on power for one. In the picture below, apparently someone took it apart, reinstalled the reed valves off set to one side on the bottom, leaving a gap as seen at the bottom arrow, creating a leakage for one set of valves. The upper one has what appears to be salt corrosion under the reed and the plate. These valves have to seat on the plate, a good solid surfaceno gaps, or corrosion. The thicker U shaped parts that have the screws thru them are the reed valve stops, so that the thin valves do not get deformed by being pulled inward beyond their limits.

    лодочный мотор эвинруд википедия

    There appears to be some evidence of rust, possibly salt corrosion here. Neglected or possibly a dunked motor. One thing here, you will never be able to salvage the gaskets on either side of this valve plate as seen in the photo, so you will need new gaskets, one against the block and the other on the manifold side. Occasionally the possibility exists that a reed valve will break, when this happens the motor will not run very well, you should be able to hear a sucking noise from the carburetor at low speed it it will run that slow. Also when rebuilding a motor, you may find that one reed valve may not lay flat to the plate. If this is the case look at the plate for straightness. If the gaskets were stuck tight, you had to hammer or pry this plate off the block, you may have bent it. If so simply lay it on a flat plate, using a hammer apply a slight amount of force in the proper location. Once it is bolted back down, it will usually then conform. This has not happened to me but was posted on one of the message boards. The motor was hard to restart when warm. It was finally traced to a small section of the plastic idle jet knob had broken off, sucked into the manifold, became stuck under one of the reed valves. This motor would run but was lacking full power. Keep track of your tie tapes. Most logically this could be attributed to a spun hub in the prop. These props use no shear pin, being a thru the hub exhaust, use a rubber bushing that is bonded both to the splined inner hub and the outer prop body.

    Эвинруд, Ол

    If for reason, possibly hit something hard while runningthis bond could be broken loose. It could be tight enough to hold for say a trolling speed, but if you rev it higher, then the hub may slip inside the bushing, causing something just like a clutch on an older car slipping. This is easy to check, pull the prop off, look at the front of the prop and you can see the rubber hub between the inner metal splined hub and the prop body. Here, scribe a reference line on the metal spline in line on the metal portion of the prop the hub sets in. Now put the prop back on the motor and go run it until the problem occurs again. Pull the prop back off and check the reference mark. If the marks are no longer in line, the hub is spun. These can be repaired by taking it to your marine dealer who will send it to a prop shop, as this is not really a do it yourself type of project.

    Всё об Evinrude

    However on a small prop like this it might not be cost effective. These shifting dog teeth are pretty hefty and deep so this is usually not a problem. But if it is a motor that you do not personally know the history on, maybe in reassembly of the parts when doing a water pump repair, someone inadvertently screwed the shifting rod in or out of adjustment. Pull the lower unit drain plug, look to see what the oil looks like, does it have any metal filings or ground up metal in it? Check the oil with a magnet. The shifting shaft link may be bent or need adjustment to keep it in gear if that is the case. Adjustment here needs to be done with how far you screw the shifting rod into the yoke of the lower unit when the lower unit is off the motor. Hold onto the shifting lever and see if when it does this jumping, do you feel the lever wanting to move at the same time the noise occurs? I have also seen the forward edge of the clutch dog being worn slightly, this can cause the motor to jump out of gear on a heavy pull if the shifting rod is out of adjustment. A cure for this can be simply when you reassemble the lower unit, to swap the clutch dog degrees front to rear. The dog slider gear is symmetrical and you have now just moved the worn forward dog to the reverse side where it will get a lot less use. Or you could have a broken crankshaft. These can break off completely, but since they are being held by three mainbearings, One on top, one in the middle and another on the bottom, they hold it rigidly enough that if the break is jagged, it will be held in place enough to run. If this condition is bad, it will not allow sufficient vacuum on the intake stroke to pull fuel from and thru the carburetor. It is possible to remove and replace this upper seal without a complete teardown. If either the top seal or bottom crankshaft seals are bad, this could lower the suction enough to not allow the engine to start.

    лодочный мотор эвинруд википедия

    The most likely of the 2 to go bad would be the top seal, because it will be more susceptible to moisture getting there under the flywheel, therefore rust on the crankshaft seal area. The flywheel itself being heavy and rotating could wear the top crankshaft bearing slightly, allowing the top seal to deteriorate or become worn. This oil is thick and sticky enough as to make a better temporary vacuum seal. Other than that, a defective seal will be just a guess until it is actually removed. But the small price of the seal and minimal effort required to replace it could be a worthwhile guess after all the other tests and guesstimates have been expended. This top seal is not that hard to replace as you do not have to remove the powerhead or split the case. Now you can get ahold of the screw with a pair of heavy duty slip-joint pliers, pry the seal up and out of the block. You may damage it enough on removal that you may not be able to even tell if it was defective. When it is out you can then check the crankshaft with a flashlight at the actual seal contact for rust. If it is bright, clean the block area, using a socket large enough to slide over the crankshaft and to bear on the new seal, tap in down and into place until it bottoms out. In the photo below of a 9. Very early on they did make a white bearing, then black and finally brown. And there should be no lubrication on these bearings otherwise the magnetic pull of the flywheel will rotate the timing plate, making for erratic running especially at lower speeds. Evidence of a leaky top oil seal with lots of oil under timing plate with the early white bearing ring. I have heard of one of these motors that would start fine but would run only at full speed and then would need some choke to keep it running. Initially it was thought to be the carburetor or the timing, but after much tear apart and adjustment, this one turned out to be the bottom crankshaft seal was bad. This seal being bad is however an uncommon occurrence. For the bottom seal replacement, you would have to pull the powerhead and possibly split the case just as you would do a complete overhaul. Look at this as a last resort, but it will very seldom be the problem. Check around the mating surfaces of the crank case for leaks. With the engine running, spray some WD40 around the possible cracks, if the engine picks up rpm, there is a leak in the mating surfaces. If the motor has been dunked, or abused so that water has entered the block in any way, and not taken care of immediately, you could have a rusted bearing journal on the crankshaft.

    I have seen slightly tarnished journals that were in service with no indication of real failure yet. One had the lower rod bearing cap was rusted to the point that there was pits in it. It was obvious that this motor had seen internal water at some time, but had been run afterwards and was still running at the time of tear down. The reason for the tear down was worn rings, which may have also been caused by the water internally in the past as the cylinder walls were also stained, but not pitted. This motor was put back into service with the same crankshaft but a polish job on the journals, new bearings and should continue to run satisfactorily for the average fisherman.

    лодочный мотор эвинруд википедия

    All the above is of course what you should be looking for as well as ASSURING your carburetor has been cleaned, floats set, timing synchronized, etc. While compression is important for compressing fuel before spark, the internal vacuum action of the piston also "works" opens and closes the reed plates. If it saturates with fuel, your reeds are bad because the fuel is spitting backwards out the carburetor intake. Use WD or an UNLIT 16oz. Do it again on any other junction of parts, looking for the same results. Again check ALL wiring connections. Even replace the spark plug wires, rubber cover with marine, not automotive graphite cored wire.

    лодочный мотор эвинруд википедия

    Make all soldered connections where possible. If the spark plugs are always fouled, maybe you need to decarbonize the motor. What you do in a case like this is to start the motor, let it warm up and saturate the internal parts with a carbon removing liquid like Sea Foam. I then connect this to the fuel line coupler on the motor and run the motor at a medium speed until all the fuel is consumed. Start it up and run it. You will get SMOKE and lots of it from carbon becoming loosened and then being burned. This can loosen up the rings in their ring grooves of the pistons and remove built up carbon on the top of the pistons and head, giving the motor a chance at new life for a while. Even doing a second shot at decarbing may not be a bad idea for neglected motors.

    Лодочный мотор Эвинруд 30

    Here you can see my gravity fuel decarb kit in action. This may happen when you try to separate the upper housing from the lower unit. If the 2 center bolts are the broken ones they are probably the least important ones and this hp of motor may well operate without them. However here is a method if repair other than a complete upper housing replacement. If the bolt does not readily start to unscrew, be careful as it may be seized and you are simply twisting the bolt. With any more movement it may twist into. If you suspect this, try to retighten a bit, the again try to unscrew it. Usually not all are seized so by trying others you should get the feel of the ones that will unscrew as compared to the other seized ones. So first off try NOT to break the bolts. If a bolt does not want to unscrew without excessive force, try another to get a feel as to what it takes to break the bolt loose initially. Then go back to the stuck one, try again. If the bolt moves even slightly in a tightening direction, it probably is frozen, all you are doing is to twist the bolt. Not a good thing. In the photo below, the corrosion was between the lower unit hole and the bolt body itself, not in the threaded section. Here you will see 2 holes drilled into both housings where penetrating oil was allowed to soak for 5 days. Tapping the upper area with a hammer resulted in the paint being damaged, but it loosed the seized bolt. Drill in just until you hit the bolt, go slightly into the threads.

    лодочный мотор эвинруд википедия

    You may want to be sure you even go into the bolt ever so slightly, but just enough to open a channel into the threads. Put some penetrating oil into these holes. Tap the aluminum with a small hammer at this location. The purpose of this is to try to get some of this penetrating oil to get into the shaft and threads. The tapping may expand the aluminum slightly plus allow some of the oil to seep into the threads. О качестве лодочного мотора Эвинруд 30 ходят легенды. Однако отзывов о данной модели в Рунете не так много, поскольку на отечественном рынке она не распространена. Немногочисленные собственники агрегата отзываются о нем исключительно положительно. Однако определенные проблемы возникают и у данной модели. Денис из Саратова владеет двигателем Эвинруд 30 несколько лет. За время работы проблем с ним не возникало. Правда, любая поломка сулит здесь большие траты. Знакомый столкнулся с подобной ситуацией. Ремонт обошелся в рублей.

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